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Three Leisurely Days Wandering Bangkok’s Hidden Lanes, Floating Markets and Local Spots Away From Overcrowded Tourist Traps

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Rachel Martinez

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Senior Correspondent

9 min read
Three Leisurely Days Wandering Bangkok’s Hidden Lanes, Floating Markets and Local Spots Away From Overcrowded Tourist Traps

Three Leisurely Days Wandering Bangkok’s Hidden Lanes, Floating Markets and Local Spots Away From Overcrowded Tourist Traps

Learn to skip overpriced tourist traps, savor authentic street food, navigate local ferry routes and catch stunning sunsets without spending too much on your Bangkok trip

The moment you step out of the airport terminal, skip the overpriced private taxi counters lined up right next to the exit, and head straight for the local elevated commuter train that runs through the heart of the old city. You do not need to book a pre-paid city tour or follow a pre-planned route full of famous scenic spots listed on every travel site. Hop off the train at the riverbank station, walk down the sloped concrete path to the public ferry pier, and buy a single ticket for the orange-flagged public ferry that runs along the full stretch of the Chao Phraya River. The cool river breeze blows over your face as the slow-moving boat drifts past stilted houses, small neighborhood temples and children laughing while splashing in the shallow water near the shore, and you will instantly feel the slow, warm rhythm of the city that no crowded tourist bus can ever show you.

Instead of booking a half-day group tour to the most famous floating market packed with souvenir stalls selling overpriced trinkets, get up before 6 a.m. on your second day and take a local shared minivan to the lesser-known waterfront market that only local residents frequent. Most vendors here steer their small wooden boats filled with fresh tropical fruits, just steamed coconut rice and homemade savory snacks right up to the pier, and you can grab a bag of mango sticky rice topped with freshly pressed coconut cream for less than two dollars, a fraction of the price charged at popular tourist restaurants. The papaya salad vendors standing on the sidewalk near the pier will ask how spicy you want your dish to be, and most local regulars order the highest level of spiciness that comes loaded with extra chilis, a choice most new visitors regret as soon as they take the first bite.

After you wander through the floating market for a few hours, head back to the old city area around noon and turn off the main tourist street into the tangled network of small residential lanes. You do not need to follow navigation apps chasing after highly rated specialty cafes that are always filled with long lines of visitors. One little known local fact that most tourists never discover is that over 70 percent of the permanent street food stalls in old Bangkok have been operated by the same family for at least three generations, and none of them alter their recipes to cater to foreign visitors’ taste preferences. You will find small stalls selling hand-shaken iced Thai tea, homemade coconut ice cream topped with roasted peanuts and warm crispy roti that taste far better than any product sold at commercial tourist spots, and you can sit on the small plastic stools set up on the sidewalk next to elderly local residents who will smile and pass you free small pieces of dried mango even if you do not speak a word of Thai.

When the sun starts to sink low in the sky on your third day, skip the crowded viewing spots packed with hundreds of people holding selfie sticks near the Grand Palace, and walk 15 minutes west along the quiet riverbank path to a tiny unmarked community pier. Take the free small cross-river ferry that local workers take every day to the small public park on the other side of the river, where you will find no tour groups, no loud tour guide speakers and no overpriced snack stalls. The golden light of the setting sun spreads all over the smooth surface of the river, the pointed tops of the distant Buddhist temples glow warm under the orange sky, and small groups of local teenagers sit on the grass playing gentle music on their guitars. You can sit there for an hour or two enjoying the cool evening wind, and you will see a side of Bangkok that never shows up on any mainstream travel brochure.

Spend your last night in the city wandering through the old Chinatown lanes far away from the glitzy downtown night markets filled with brand stores. The charcoal grilled seafood stalls spread out on the sidewalk sell tender grilled river prawns, sour and spicy tom yum soup and toasted bread slathered with homemade pandan custard, and a full hearty meal for two people usually costs less than five dollars. The elderly vendors selling hand-woven fabric accessories and hand-painted postcards never randomly raise prices for foreign visitors, and they will often wrap an extra small handmade gift in your shopping bag before you leave. You do not need to schedule every minute of your trip perfectly, because the most unforgettable moments in Bangkok always pop up in the unplanned, quiet moments that you stumble upon by accident.